The term game is applied to wild animals and birds which are hunted and eaten. In Britain, there is a close season for most game, when hunting is forbidden. Only rabbits, pigeons and qualis are not protected by law and are available fresh throughout the year.
For roasting and grilling, all game should be young – a condition that is easiest recognised on unplucked game. The beak and feet should be pliable, the plumage or fur soft, and the breast plump.
Most game is bought from licensed poulterers and fishmongers, prepared (dressed) and often barded, ready for cooking, In practice, customers must rely on the retailer for quality products, and many game birds are labelled as ‘young’ birds’ or ‘casserole birds’.
Before it is ready for cooking, game must be hung in order to tenderise the flesh and develop the gamey flavour. It is not necessary to hang game until it is ‘high’; hanging time depends on the weather – game matures more quickly in warm humid weather – and on individual taste. Game birds are hung, unplucked and undrawn, by their beaks in a cook airy place and are ready for cooking when the tail feathers can be pulled out easily. Furred game is hung by the feet for one or two weeks.
Although many types of game are commercially frozen and there – fore available throughout the year, the flavour is at its best in freshly killed and well – hung game.
GAME BIRDS
Grouse, red or Scottish The most coomon and popular grouse. Young birds, with soft downy breast feathers and pointed flight wings, are roasted and served one per person. Older birds, with rounded tips to the wings, are better casseroled. Hang for about three days. Season: August 12 – December 10; best, August to October.
Mallard The largest wild duck, with lean, dry flesh. The flight feathers are pointed and the breast downy in young birds. Hang for one day only. Serve roasted, allowing one bird for two or three persons. Season: September 1-February 28; best, November and December.
Partridge There are two varieties, the English or grey partridge, which has the better flavour, and the slightly larger, red – legged French partridge. Young birds have rounded tips to the feathers, yellow – brown pliable feet and light – coloured plump flesh. Hang for three or four days before roasting or grilling; serve one per person. Season: September 1-January 31; best, October and November.
Pheasant The cock and hen may be sold singly or as a brace. Young birds of both sexes have pliable beaks and feet, soft and pointed feathers; on cocks the short spurs are rounded. A hen pheasant, which is considered the tastiest, will serve three, and a cock four people. Season: October 1-January 31; best, November and December.
Pigeon Wood pigeons are inexpensive game birds, often tough and best casseroled. Very young birds, with pink legs, downy feathers and plump breast, may be roasted or grilled. Hang for one day, and serve one bird per person. Season: all year round; best, August to October.
Quail Rare in Britain, although it is now reared on poultry farms and also imported. Quail has a less gamey flavour than other birds and should not be hung. On young birds, the feathers are pointed and the feet soft with rounded spurs. Roast or grill, serving one bird per person. Season: all year roung.
Snipe Small bird not often seen in the shops. Hang for three or four days. Some gourmets maintain that snipe should not be drawn before cooked; the head is twisted round so that the long bill can be pushed like a skewer between the legs and into the body. Serve one roast snipe per person. Season: August 12-January 31; best, November.
Teal The most common wild duck, with short pointed feathers and thin soft feet in young birds. It generlly requires no hanging. Excellent for roasting and grilling. Serve one real per persons. Season: September 1- February 28; best, December\.
Wild goose Canada goose is occasionally seen, although it is illegal to offer it for sale. On young birds, with lean dark flesh, the flight feathers are pointed and the long dark feet pliable. Hang for four ro five days. One goose (average weight 7 Ib). will serve six persons.
Woodcock This bird (average weight 12 oz) is slightly larger than snipe, which it resembles, with plumper breast. Like snipe, it should be hung for about three days and may be roasted undrawn, trussed with the long bill. Season: October 1-January 31; best, November and December.
FURRED GAME
Hare There are two types, the English or brown hare and the scottish or blue hare. A young hare (weight 6-7 Ib). known as a leveret, can be recognished by its small, sharp, white teeth, smooth fur and hidden claws; the soft ears tear easily. Hang for about one week. Young hares may be roasted whole, to serve four to six persons; older animals are better casseroled although the saddle can be roasted. Season: August 1-end March; best, October onwards.
Rabbit The flesh of the wild rabbit often has a gamey flavour. Smaller than the hare rabbit can be recognised by the same signs. It is preared and cooked in the same way, but is skinned at once after killing and should not be hung. Rabbits on sale in the shops are domesticated, with a flavour like chicken. Sold whole or jointed, Season: all year.
Venison The best meat comes from the young male deer (buck), at an age of 11/2-2 years when the hooves are small and smooth. The lean meat is dark red and close – grained, with firm white fat. Hang for at least one week. Venison is sold in joints, the leg and saddle being the choicest cuts. Loin chops, neck cutlets and shoulder may be braised. Season: June – Januar.
